A Design Generation Rising
“For me it's about creating silhouettes that sort of have built-in gesture.”
Thakoon Panichgul is in growth mode, thanks to his critically acclaimed women’s wear line; a visible role in the Vogue documentary, “The September Issue;” and popularity as one of Michelle Obama’s go-to designers. He takes a short break from his New York Fashion Week preparations.
How has your life changed since Michelle Obama began wearing your clothing on the national stage?It’s really brought my name to the mainstream a bit. I think day-to-day, it gives me assurance to continue doing what I like to do.
With all of the news about the recession and daily reports about one fashion brand dropping out of fashion week after another, it can be easy to sink into a mindset of doom and gloom. How do you handle it all mentallI go back to dreaming about fashion as fantasy. I got into fashion because of that, and I think it canbe a powerful vehicle of escape.
When was the last time you went to a movie theater and what did you see?
I just saw “Underworld: Rise of the Lycans.”What was the last album you purchased?
The soundtrack to “Blade Runner.”
How do you approach getting dressed in the morning?
By how cold it is outside. If it’s cold, then a cardigan goes over a t-shirt. if not, then just the t-shirt.
DESIGNERS AT WORK: THAKOON AT NYTIMES
Thakoon X GAP
Thakoon Panichgul + Model_Gap_New York_USA
Thakoon is a true reflection of the diverse mix of its designer, Thakoon Panichgul. Born in Northern Thailand, Thakoon moved to the United States with his family when he was 11 years old, and grew up in Omaha, Nebraska. Panichgul has a talent for blending distinctly different influences into his work, imparting a feminine spirit into a youthful, sporty line. The result is clothing that projects poised elegance with an underlying hint of playful wit. Growing up, Panichgul was interested in photography, and always had an eye for styling. After graduating from Boston University with a business degree, he moved to New York. As a fashion writer, Thakoon discovered that his ideas were often conceived through a designer's point of view, and he eventually pursued formal studies at Parsons School of Design. In September 2004, Thakoon produced his first ready to wear collection, and quickly became a favorite with the fashion press, top editors and stylists, and celebrities. He has become known for timelessly feminine designs which are as romantic and sensual as they are modern and innovative.
Thakoon Panichgul_Models_Gap_New York_USA
Thakoon Panichgul, sketches_Gap_New York_USA
Michelle Obamain Thakoon
A visible role in the Vogue documentary:y
'' The September Issue ''
In 2007 he produced a fashion line for The Gap after being promoted by Anna Wintour of Vogue Magazine, as chronicled in the 2009 American documentary film, The September Issue. He has become known for timelessly feminine designs which are as romantic and sensual as they are modern and innovative. He had a very popular, limited-edition clothing line at Target in early 2009.
“Anna Is The Madonna Of The Fashion World .”
Thakoon X NARS
NARS Cosmetics created the makeup look at the Thakoon AW2010 show. We were there to witness all the action. The inspiration for the entire collection: “I was inspired by the costumes used in this show and wanted to create a collection that reflected that same era but without the goth element,” said designer Thakoon Panichgul.
The NARS Look: “The look is fresh, beautiful, luminous and quite confident,” said lead NARS artist Diane Kendal about the look. “We focused on a strong brow and highlighted the eyes to show depth and boldness in a way that wouldn’t fight with the various textures, layers and colors of the collection.”
Click through to see the products used.
Our backstage photos here.
· Douceur Blush (NEW for Fall 2010); try Lovejoy or Madly Blush for a similar effect
· Coconut Grove Single Eyeshadow (NEW for Fall 2010); try Bali Single Eyeshadow for a similar effect
· Tzarine Duo Eyeshadow (NEW for Fall 2010); try the Orgasm Illuminator on brow bones for a similar effect
· Portobello Duo Eyeshadow
· Tashkent Pure Matte Lipstick (NEW for Fall 2010); try Belle de Jour Velvet Matte Lip Pencil for a similar effect
ByYou'd be hard pressed to find a more unassuming designer than Thakoon Panichgul. He might not be in it for the spotlight, but he can't seem to escape the high beams. Not only has he received Michelle Obama's blessing, he also landed a cameo in The September Issue. Oh, and did we mention that Amanda Brooks and co. can't seem to leave home without his label on their backs? "Thakoon is just so easy to wear," Elettra Wiedemann was heard enthusing to a friend at the show today.
It certainly wasn't hard to take a shine to Panichgul's Spring lineup, which included lots of the crowd-pleasing print dresses that have become his signature. Some of them felt a little bit like sequels—but there were new ideas here: strains of Japonisme in the kimono cuts and so-called ninja pants, a scuba-inflected athleticism in the techno-twill seamed pants, and armoring (though some of the shield dresses looked a bit, well, stiff).
Most interesting was the manner in which Panichgul carried forward and developed concepts from his romantic and wildly popular Resort collection. The plissé pleats that had fabulously swelled like soufflés for pre-collection were controlled for Spring, as Panichgul married this surface treatment to the soft bondage that he's toyed with before. "I wanted to evoke loose and tight together," Panichgul explained, "sometimes in one silhouette." The upshot? Another guaranteed season at center stage.Photo: Marcio Madeira
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By Fittingly, on this chilly December day in New York, Thakoon Panichgul presented a pre-fall collection intended to evoke warmth. How, exactly? "Through the use of fabrics that envelop the body," the designer explained. The results were earthier and more organic, though no less wearable, than the sporty looks he showed for Spring. Riffing on the classic white shirt, he showed a belted Watteau-back shirtdress that was at once streamlined and voluminous, as well as a more fitted style that had buttons snaking across the torso. He played with scarf trims in creative ways, edging draped skirts and adding visual interest to elaborately manipulated frocks he described as "all-in-one self-styling" (translation: there's so much going on, you don't need any additional elements). Panichgul, whose new shoe line debuts this spring, had his first go at producing cold-weather footwear here, and the slouchy wedges and suede peep-toe booties he's come up with are sure to be among next winter's most covetable styles.
Photo: Courtesy of Thakoon
full view more on style.com
full view more on style.com
The Thakoon collection is a true reflection of the highly diverse background of its designer, Thakoon Panichgul. Born in Thailand, raised in Omaha and now New York-based, Panichgul has a talent for blending distinctly different influences into his work, imparting a feminine spirit into a youthful, sporty line. The result of these various influences is a collection that projects poised elegance with an underlying hint of playful wit.
From a very early age clothing and fashion played an important role in Panichgul’s upbringing. Both his mother and grandmother were expert seamstresses, and from them he learned the craft of hand sewing. He learned not only how a garment is built, but also how construction directly affects posture and stance. From these beginnings, Thakoon took away the fundamental idea behind the foundation of impeccable style: how you wear clothes is just as important as what you wear.
After graduating from Boston University with a business degree, Panichgul moved to New York to begin his career at J. Crew—first in production, then merchandising—learning the ropes and sharpening his business know-how. Most recently, Panichgul spent four years as a writer and editor for Harper’s Bazaar, where he chased after style news, traced trends and developed fashion stories. While there, Panichgul realized that his ideas were often influenced by his designer’s point of view, and eventually he decided to move away from journalism and back to design, and this led him to enroll at Parsons School of Design.
In September 2004, after many years of training, Thakoon presented his first ready-to-wear collection, quickly becoming a favorite of editors, stylists and celebrities. He created a unique niche, showing a collection of beautifully crafted, feminine designs which are as romantic and sensual as they are modern and innovative.
Panichgul is fascinated by decorative ideas that spin out of constructing clothes. Where classic patterns have existed for decades, the nuances involved in finishing the garments are reexamined or altered in some way. The subtle strokes, he believes, make all the difference. The collection has been described as “forward-looking, respectful of the past, and not at all vintage. In fact, his delicate deconstructions are entirely modern, owing more to the Antwerp Six than to Vionnet. And though his collection might be perfect for a modern Madame de Pompadour, it would suit an L.A. starlet just as well.”
Thakoon has already received numerous accolades from the fashion industry including a 2006 CFDA Fashion Award nomination for the Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Award for Womenswear. Also, he was a runner-up in the 2006 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.
In November 2006 Thakoon unveiled his first collection of sunglasses. The collection produced in collaboration with Cult will be in-store in February.
The Council of Fashion Designers of America/CFDA Foundation, Inc. gratefully acknowledges the sponsors of 7th on Sale Online: CFDA Foundation, Vogue Magazine, eBay, Kenneth Cole Productions, M·A·C AIDS Fund, Marc Jacobs International, Polo Ralph Lauren and Topshop -- without whose generosity and support this fundraising initiative would not be possible.
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Compiled by The PORTASTYLISTIC
Rocks the runway!