Moncler Gamme Bleu
Menswear Collection
Autumn/Winter 2010/11
created by
Thom Browne
© by WWD
MONCLER Website
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Thom Browne
Interviews with Thom Browne, designer and Remo Ruffini, CEO, who are enthusiastic about the latest Gamme Bleu collection for Moncler.
Thom Browne is remaking menswear with his tailored suits and flood water high trousers bottoms, which also is a good thing for short dudes who want to wear cool socks and not have get the sloppy leg thing (whatever you call it)
The designer takes Style.com on his daily run in Central Park. Now we know how he fits into all those shrunken suits.
FROM
THOM BROWNE
1.
I don’t understand why everybody thinks that dressing casually is so much more comfortable. I’m as comfortable in a suit as I am in anything else.2.
Good champagne—good, not expensive—has been my cocktail of choice for as long as I can remember. I like them all—Bollinger, Taittinger, and others. I also collect champagne coupes; I have more than 10. They’re one of the few things that I collect.3.
Chariots of Fire, Death in Venice, North by Northwest, and The Thomas Crown Affair are some of my favorite films—and they’re all particularly inspiring for menswear. I watch movies all the time but I don’t like to go to the theater. It’s just too much.4.
Guys shouldn’t spend a lot of money on a haircut. I go to Chelsea Barbers in New York, where I pay about $30. The price went up, but I’m very loyal to the woman there.5.
It’s sad that the cell phone is replacing the watch as a time-telling device. I wear a vintage watch that’s really skinny.6.
When it comes to shoes, you don’t really need more than a few pairs of wing tips or oxfords. They’re classics. And I wear only black shoes in the city. Brown ones are for the country.7.
Men don’t know enough about being courteous toward women. You should get into a cab before a woman so she doesn’t have to slide across the seat. And you should always go first into a revolving door so she doesn’t have to push—unless it’s moving, then let her go first.8.
Seersucker and khaki suits are the key to looking put-together in the summer. I also wear shorts year-round. And I would never say never, but I don’t wear sandals. With shorts, it’s wing tips and tennis socks.9.
I like menswear from the late fifties and early sixties. It’s the uniformity and the lack of choice from that era that I respond to. It’s also the last time that there was such a distinct American style. Now it’s all jumbled up and homogenized.10.
I love white linen sheets, but they need to be ironed, so that limits my use of them. Otherwise, I like really good, starched white cotton sheets. They have to be white.
(CFDA) Menswear Designer of the Year 2006
(Photo credit: AP)
A tailored suit is an essential part of every man’s wardrobe. Now, there are many ways you can go about attracting (wanted) attention with your suit; an Ermenegildo Zegna will say you’ve got money, taste, and knowledge about luxury designers. Sure a Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent or Tom Ford suit will do the same, but that’s only because Zegna is actually behind the production of most of those suits.
There is one designer who recognizes that some people just aren’t out to look like everyone else, they want to stand out from the crowd while fitting in. Thom Browne knows this, and has built a persona around his signature look; not only breaking all the rules of modern tailored suits, but rejecting the conventions on which they stand all together. This cutting-edge eye for men’s suits has landed the New York designer acclaim and award, such as being named the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Menswear Designer of the Year in March 2006 and GQ’s Designer of the Year in November 2008.
A signature Thom Browne suit looks something like when you try to wear your old suit from the prom, the pant legs and jacket sleeves are too short, the jacket is very snug and just barely fits around your shoulders. At least, that’s what it looks like to the untrained eye. In fact, they are hand-tailored, made-to-measure suits, constructed in New York City and made to mold to your body perfectly. The only prerequisite for buyers is the need to have a fit body, because these suits aren’t made for anyone packing any extra pounds.
Typically, the Thom Browne suit consists of flat-front pants with exposed ankles (no socks, thank-you very much), with no belt loops. The fitted jacket ends mid-wrist, has 3 buttons and narrow lapels rolled to the middle button. This is always paired with a tie made from the same fabric, a silver tie clip, a white button down shirt, and black leather dress shoes. We’ll let Thom Browne himself give you his rules for proper suit usage, after the jump.
Rule #1: “Only the middle button on the jacket should be buttoned when you are wearing it closed.”
Rule #2: “The pocket square in the breast pocket should be just peeking out (no more than 1/8 of an inch).”
Rule #3: “The last button on the cuff of the jacket should be left unbuttoned.”
Rule #4: “The button-down collar of the white oxford shirt should remain unbuttoned.”
Rule #5: “Please do not iron the oxford shirts after washing.”
Rule #6: “The trousers should be worn high-waisted so that the cuff of the trouser falls above the ankle.”
Rule #7: “The neckties have been pretied, but please remember to keep the knot very tight when tying the necktie.”
Rule #8: “The necktie should be worn long, with the tip of the tie tucked into the waist of the trousers.”
Rule #9: “The tie bar should be clipped so that it falls halfway between the collar of your shirt and the waistband of the trousers.”
Rule #10: “The shoes should be worn without socks.”
From GQ Magazine’s feature; The Man in the Tiny Suit.
BLACK FLEECE
By
Thom Browne
Thom Browne is a designer from New York City. He won the Council of Fashion Designers of America Menswear Designer of the Year Award in 2006 and GQ’s Designer of the Year for 2008. He has his own line affectionately titled “Thom Browne.” and was announced in 2006 as Brooks Brothers Menswear Designer. Early in 2008, Brooks Brothers showed a further interest in keeping Thom Browne on for another three years having him lead the “Black Fleece” line.
Thom Browne SS09 Final Look
(AP)Thom Browne | Designer: Thom Browne | slide show
“A foursome in standard tennis whites opened the show just to hang up a mental picture of tradition and respectability before Browne tore it to bits.” (DNR)“Browne indulges his fantasies to come out with not-so-original clothes including men in skirts, which Jean Paul Gaultier was creating 25 years ago” (The International Herald Tribune)
“a relatively crisp, clean dissertation on American sportswear” (men.style.com)
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Thom Browne's classically inspired clothing
is tailor made for men
who want to look effortlessly cool and masculine!
-the portastylistic
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