Friday, January 22, 2010

Hot and Covered... "When the Navy inspires French fashion"







When the Navy inspires French fashion





Creations by French designers are seen on display for the exhibition "When the Navy inspires French fashion" at the Musee National de la Marine in Paris February 24, 2009. This exhibition, which assembles rare pieces from the collections of the Musee de la Marine and the naval command academy in Toulon, is focused on 35 haute-couture outfits designed by Jeanne Lanvin to Jean Paul Gaultier, via Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent and many others, that testify to the Navy influence. (Xinhua/Reuters Photo)




































As much as I love educational things (i.e. think museums and documentaries), me stepping into Le Musée National de la Marine is still a long shot. Seeing so many boats and instruments can only keep me entertained for long. But at 8€, I figured that I may as well give the museum a twirl. Reason for me being in the museum was to see the now finished exhibition, Les Marins Font la Mode. Posters have been up for this since forever and has been running since February. I completely forgot about it and rushed to make sure I could see it on its last day, last Sunday afternoon.


Past and present uniforms of French mariners

Located at the back of the museum, you have to head down a flight of stairs and present your ticket to the security guard (it was a couple extra Euros to get into this part, which was all I really was looking for). At first, I was disappointed. The room just presents the history of and examples of past French marine uniforms. Exhilarating for eight Euros, yeah?

Corridor leading to more marine fashion goodness!

You turn around, ready to leave and then notice that a corridor on onside of the staircase asks you to follow it. This is where the good stuff is found. Posters of celebrities wearing marine inspired clothing, old marine themed designer clothing hangs behind the display cases, and a television screen portraying popular commercials of the mid-20th century welcome you as you walk down the hallway.

I was curious to look at the other corridor that was found on the side of the staircase. It was more children’s marine fashion and hats than it was celebrities and glamor.

Marine inspired fashion; in front, Yves Saint Laurent outfits

This leads me to the best part of the exhibition. An elevated platform in the center of the room features designer ensembles inspired by marine uniform fashion, with designers such as Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, and Jean Paul Gaultier (you get to see the outfit that the Le Male cologne bottle is modeled after!), ranging from the 50s up until last year. Flanking the platform on the left are the stereotypes of mariners explained (such as their tattoos and hero persona), and on the right, you find a close examination of how each piece of the uniform has influenced fashion.

Heading to the very back of the exhibition room is a small area where Parisian high school students, who specialize in fashion design, show off their marine inspired designs. I personally would have loved to see a couple of these ensembles (only three were fitted on mannequins) featured on mannequins instead of being left on hangers. But it was still good to see young people being given the chance to get involved with exhibitions.


The exhibition Les Marins font la Mode: Sailor Chic in Paris at the Musée national de la Marin has a nice online presentation, including the blog on the home page and a selection of le vestiaire marin (ability to read French a strong plus).


I wish all costume exhibits featured dissections:
Discovered via the mysteriously compelling Le Divan Fumoir Bohémien.

Dior
Dior


On aperçoit la robe de cocktail sur la gauche

On aperçoit la robe de cocktail de Christian Dior sur la gauche


Le podium

Le podium



Costumes de bain féminins et masculins, entre 1875 et 1900

Costumes de bain féminins et masculins, entre 1875 et 1900


Costume de bain pour enfant, vers 1900

Costume de bain pour enfant, vers 1900


Tenue de sortie du matelot et tenue d'un officier, Second Empire

Tenue de sortie du matelot et tenue d'un officier, Second Empire


Tenue de sortie du matelot en 1858

Tenue de sortie du matelot en 1858


Les modifications du costume marin au XXème siècle

Les modifications du costume marin au XXème siècle


Marin, dîner de l'équipage, Julien Le Blant, 1890

Marin, dîner de l'équipage, Julien Le Blant, 1890

"Les Marins Font La Mode" Poster

As much as I love educational things (i.e. think museums and documentaries), me stepping into Le Musée National de la Marine is still a long shot. Seeing so many boats and instruments can only keep me entertained for long. But at 8€, I figured that I may as well give the museum a twirl. Reason for me being in the museum was to see the now finished exhibition, Les Marins Font la Mode. Posters have been up for this since forever and has been running since February. I completely forgot about it and rushed to make sure I could see it on its last day, last Sunday afternoon.

Past and present uniforms of French mariners

Past and present uniforms of French mariners

Located at the back of the museum, you have to head down a flight of stairs and present your ticket to the security guard (it was a couple extra Euros to get into this part, which was all I really was looking for). At first, I was disappointed. The room just presents the history of and examples of past French marine uniforms. Exhilarating for eight Euros, yeah?

Corridor leading to more marine fashion goodness!

Corridor leading to more marine fashion goodness!

You turn around, ready to leave and then notice that a corridor on onside of the staircase asks you to follow it. This is where the good stuff is found. Posters of celebrities wearing marine inspired clothing, old marine themed designer clothing hangs behind the display cases, and a television screen portraying popular commercials of the mid-20th century welcome you as you walk down the hallway.

I was curious to look at the other corridor that was found on the side of the staircase. It was more children’s marine fashion and hats than it was celebrities and glamor.

Marine inspired fashion; in front, Yves Saint Laurent outfits

Marine inspired fashion; in front, Yves Saint Laurent outfits

This leads me to the best part of the exhibition. An elevated platform in the center of the room features designer ensembles inspired by marine uniform fashion, with designers such as Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, and Jean Paul Gaultier (you get to see the outfit that the Le Male cologne bottle is modeled after!), ranging from the 50s up until last year. Flanking the platform on the left are the stereotypes of mariners explained (such as their tattoos and hero persona), and on the right, you find a close examination of how each piece of the uniform has influenced fashion.

Heading to the very back of the exhibition room is a small area where Parisian high school students, who specialize in fashion design, show off their marine inspired designs. I personally would have loved to see a couple of these ensembles (only three were fitted on mannequins) featured on mannequins instead of being left on hangers. But it was still good to see young people being given the chance to get involved with exhibitions.

Image

Image

Image

Image

Musée de la Marine


Les marins font la mode
Du 25 février au 26 juillet 2009
Musée national de la Marine
Palais de Chaillot
17, Place du Trocadéro, Paris 16ème
tél: 01 53 65 69 69
Métro Trocadéro
Pour en savoir plus, le musée alimente un chouette
blog.

Marine style in "À bout de Souffle." Photo: TheMoveDB.org.

In grand ole Oprah style, I’ve decided to round out 2009 with another contest give-away. Plus, I’ll doff my “bachi” (French sailor hat) to a few of my favorite things in Paris!

Be the first Cheapo to correctly answer the New Wave film-related questions below, and we’ll give you a handsome catalog from the exposition, “Les Marins Font La Mode—Sailor Chic in Paris,” accompanied by one sporty Sephora striped travel bag!

Stars in stripes forever!


That fantastic exposition of Sailor Chic was presented earlier this year at the Musée de la Marine, located at place du Trocadéro. Whenever history, art, and fashion collide, Cheapos, I am there.

But who hasn’t been touched by the bold stripes of the traditional nautical shirts of Brittany (the coastal region where the French-striped top originated)? This look not only hooked appealingly rugged-types like Picasso, Hemingway, and Jean Paul Gaultier, but also lured Chanel, Rykiel, Schiaparelli, Jean Seberg, Brigitte Bardot, and Audrey Hepburn, just to name a few.

And it continues to captivate. Why, the very shirt that Audrey herself wore in the 1956 film “War and Peace” was recently put up for auction in London!

Beyond the sea!


Beyond the doubt, this French naval history museum is still worth a visit, even though the exhibit has closed. Dive deep into its vast collection of artifacts ranging from Napoleon’s gilded ceremonial barge (with all 24 oars still intact!), the Carmagnolle brothers’ diving suit (at 800 pounds, those brothers were heavy indeed), to toy boats that once belonged to the young Louis XV! (Museum hours are 10 AM to 6 PM. Closed on Tuesdays.)

Afterwards, head to the frip-frip-perie!

After your expedition to the museum, why not set out on a quest for the perfect striped shirt of your own? Described by Hemingway as, “very stiff and built for hard wear but softened by washings.”

In the Marais, you’ll find beaucoup de Breton stripes. Get your maritime on at the boutique King of Frip (short for “friperie,” a second-hand clothing shop) at 14 rue Vieille du Temple. Its wide aisles make it a favorite sweet spot of mine.

Though smaller, the Vintage Désir down the street at 32 rue des Rosiers also has bountiful goods. You’ll find the striped booty toward the front of the store, to the left—to the left.

Image

Now, to the quiz:

Jean-Luc Godard’s classic “À bout de soufflé” (“Breathless”) was shot on-location in Paris. In the film, Jean Seberg’s character, a budding journalist named Patricia, wears a magnificent striped dress to a press conference at the old Paris-Orly Airport. Striving to make ends meet, Patricia also sells newspapers on the Champs Élysées.

1. Name the newspaper Patricia so charmingly hawks on the streets of Paris!

2. Also, give us the name of the French store where director Godard (Cheapo at heart) bought the striped dress featured in the scene.

The first Cheapo to answer both questions correctly wins the catalog from the Musée de la Marine’s exposition, “Les Marins Font La Mode—Sailor Chic in Paris,” and a compact spiffy Sephora striped travel bag, to boot! Please leave your answers in the comments box below.

Bonne Chance! Et Bonne Année, Cheapos


LES

MARINS

FONT

LA

MODE

Sailor chic in paris


First we'll stop in at the new exhibit at le Musee National de la Marine at 17, place du Trocadéro to see the influence of sailor's gear on fashion at the Les Marins Font la Mode show. "When the Navy inspires French fashion" (closed Tuesdays and open tous les jours de 10 à 18h -9 euros )



Can we ever get enough of marine stripes class? Silly question. Sailors stripes are right up there with macarons and ballerines as best-loved Frenchie trendie (tendence) style icons. 35 haute-couture outfits designed by Jeanne Lanvin to Jean Paul Gaultier, Chanel, Dior, Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent to see...


Sonia Rykiel's witty striped pull (sweater) with a sailor's pompom hat embroidered at the waist...


The REAL thing in a 30's poster. French sailor songs and snipets of Gene Kelley in On the Town are playing in the background to get you in the nautical mood...


A 20's fashion statement...


All kinds of ephemera and toys illustrate the love for the navy look...


Even old French dollies are got up in striped sailor suits!


The everlasting bateau-neck striped T will always be a permanent fashion fixture. Jean-Paul Gaultier has created a special affordable collection for the museum gift shop of this classic. I was tempted but the call of the macaron is stronger...


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by
the portastylistic


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SOMEWHERE BEYOND THE SEA!


-the portastylistic



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