GET YOUR HEAD ON STRAIGHT
C’mon, who among us doesn’t suffer through a bad-hair day now and then, or obsess about what kind of product to use, or stress about going gray? We grabbed six very different real guys, threw in a heap of expert advice, and figured out how to make the most of the head we’ve been dealt.
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Six Things You Need to Know Now
• Do go to a hair salon if you’ve got a longer, more elaborate coif.
• Don’t go to a salon if you want something standard, like a side part or a pompadour. An inexpensive barber will do.
• Do shampoo and condition your hair.
• Don’t wash it every time you shower—a couple of times a week is enough. (Your hair’s natural grease is healthy.)
• Do get a fresh cut in preparation for a big event, like a wedding.
• Don’t get it done the day before. Unless you’re Kid Cudi (see slide 4).
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GQ: A Hair Primer
Scott Ewald, 36
Visual merchandising coordinator, Hickey Freeman
The Throwback
Want to look like Cary Grant? First, determine which direction your hair naturally falls. Then notice how Scott combs his hair to the side and back at an angle, not directly across. He also reaches for Queen Helene hard-to-hold style gel to get that shellacked look. A choice side part, however, starts with the right cut. Find a barber you like, get him to follow these steps, and return every two or three weeks.
1. On Top: Trim and layer with scissors so hair lies back on top and fades into the sides.
2. On Sides: Electric clippers with a No. 2 guard.
3. In Back: No hard lines—fade the hair naturally down the back of the neck.
4. On Top: Every third time Scott sees his barber, he has him thin his hair by shearing it with toothed scissors.
Photo: Paola Kudacki
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The Essentials for the Perfect Old-School Side Part
• You want serious sheen (and hold)? You need product. Go with an affordable gel or pomade, like Murray’s, a drugstore staple.
• A set of electric clippers is essential to the close-cropped fade on the sides and back of Scott’s hair.
• The teeth of a comb give Scott’s hair its grooves.
Photo: Tom Schierlitz
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Eric Ripert, 44
Chef, Co-owner Le Bernadin, N.Y.C.
How to Go Gray With Style
L.A.-based hairstylist Chris McMillan (our go-to expert on all things hair) explains:
1. “Obviously, gray hair will make you look older. So stick with a smart, trim cut. Think: more Anderson Cooper than David Gregory or Newt Gingrich.”
2. “The same goes for your wardrobe. You need to keep it modern but sophisticated.”
3. “You don’t want yellow-gray hair. Steer clear of yellow shampoos—seriously. Pick a pearly white one instead.”
Photo: Paola Kudacki
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Kid Cudi, 25The Neo-Fro (And How To Manage It)
Musician (new album: The Man on the Moon: End of the Day)
1. The look Cudi calls “grungy” is actually very tidy. His barber uses electric clippers to create clean edges that frame his face.
2. He does let his curls go a bit, however. But who doesn’t right now? Just check out Kanye and Jay-Z.
3. Bigger hair, though, doesn’t mean a bigger beard. (He ain’t Rick Ross.) Cudi keeps it trim, fading seamlessly from his sideburns.
Kid Cudi on his ever-evolving do: “When I lived in Cleveland, I had a barber who was by appointment only. We’d just kick it in his shop—I’d play him some of my music, and we’d crack jokes and watch movies. In high school, I kept a Caesar for a while, I had a Mohawk, and I used to apply these texturizer kits so I could have the bomb S-curl. I used to think I was [singer] Carl Thomas. Now I’m letting my hair grow out a bit, and I have this guy called Lyte who cuts my hair twice a week. Since I’m letting it go longer, I just get a trim and a lineup. I don’t really get the full cut anymore. I’m embracing my grungy look.”
Photo: Paola Kudacki
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Kurt Schroeder, 42
sales, Ever Clothing
The thinner—or more receding—your hair, the shorter you should keep it. Get a Grip on Pomade
Kurt Schroeder has sported the same rockabilly-inspired haircut for twenty years. The key to its success is pomade.
• If you’re hard-core about your pomade, you can’t go wrong with Murray’s. It’s heavy-duty grease that essentially doesn’t wash out. (Just be careful: When Kurt got married, his wife got tired of throwing out pillowcases and made him switch brands.) Here’s how to apply it: Open the can and run hot water in it. When it’s nice and lubed up, dip your fingers in and scoop out a little bit. Rub it between your fingers, then run your fingers through your wet hair. Comb, like Kurt, or style with your hands.
• If you want a pomade that doesn’t rub off on your wife’s linens, consider water-soluble pomades, like 360 Style (which Kurt digs) or Cool Grease (a popular Japanese brand).
• If you’ve got thick hair, consider clay-based pomades by brands like Baxter of California, American Crew, and Fekkai for Men. They’ll give a grittier feel and a matte finish.
Photo: Paola Kudacki
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Randi Lee, 34
General Manager, The Spotted Pig, N.Y.C.
The Effortless Look
(which takes some effort)
To achieve his chop-top, controlled-chaos style, Randi does two things: (1) Most importantly, he gets it cut with a straight razor (see next slide). And (2) he always showers at night. Sometimes he uses shampoo, sometimes he just rinses. Then he goes to bed. When he wakes up in the morning, he’s already got the bedhead thing going. He might mat it down a little on top, tuft it up in the back, and pull it out a bit on the sides. If it’s being finicky, he’ll use Bumble and bumble wax, but never any wet product.
Photo: Paola Kudacki
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A Good Barber’s Secret Weapon
Randi’s haircutter, Shorty Maniace (from F.S.C. Barber in N.Y.C.), explains:
“The straight blade is the key to giving Randi that messy look. I get his hair superwet so it doesn’t shred, and taper it from root to top. I also twist the hair up and attack it with the tip for texture, and cut against the way it wants to grow.”
Photo: Tom Schierlitz
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Rob McKinley, 33
Co-owner, GoldBar NYC and the Surf Lodge (Montauk, New York)
Let It Go Long…
(While staying in control) Chris McMillan explains:
“This is like the modern version of Warren Beatty’s hairstyle in Shampoo. The thing is, you need to go to a high-end salon, not a barbershop, for this kind of hair. Look for a stylist who has hair like yours—he’ll understand. Or if you meet someone who has what you’re after, ask him who cuts his hair. What you’re essentially looking for is the non-haircut haircut. Ask the stylist to take off about a half inch all over your head, and go every six weeks.”
Photo: Paola Kudacki
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Or Take It All Off
Shaving your head isn’t as simple as running a pair of electric clippers over it. Here’s what to remember:
• Contour the cut.
See Channing Tatum on the cover this month. Go shorter on the sides and longer on top.
• Do the math.
Electric clippers are ?tted with guards dictating how close they cut. A No. 1 is 1/8 of an inch, a No. 4 is 4/8 of an inch, etc. Go with, say, a No. 3 on top, a No. 1 around the ears, and a No. 2 in between.
• Balance a supertight cut with some stubble on your face. (See Jason Statham, left.)
Special Thanks Post and also in GQ
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Love this look!!
Tyler Brûlé'..............................................................................................................
" your hair needs a week after a cut to look
its best."
-the portastylistic
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