Thursday, October 23, 2008

New Modern Classic...THE NEW STANDARDS


Sunglasses, $159, by Moscot.
The best thing about these vintage-minded sunglasses is that they’re not pretending to be retro—they are. “The design dates from the 1930s,” says Kenny Moscot, the label’s co-owner. “I just figured out a way to reproduce them.” Over the past year, Moscot has fully revamped the business that his great-grandfather launched in 1899, when he started selling glasses from a pushcart on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. Lately, the company’s classic styles have been attracting what Moscot calls “a rich cast of characters,” from downtown scenesters to film stars like Denzel Washington. Just try on a pair. You’ll understand why.




Sneakers, $276, by Common Projects.
Common Projects started out small. Very small. “We were just a couple of guys who were going to make a couple of pairs of shoes and wear them around,” recalls designer Peter Poopat with a laugh. That was back in 2004. Since then, Poopat and his collaborator, Flavio Girolami, have been creating these simple, unadorned sneakers that have become hugely popular with the art and fashion crowds. The shoes’ lean shape, slimmer laces, and fine Italian leather allow them to go well with both suits and jeans. Look for the article number stamped on the heel—it’s the closest thing they’ve got to a logo.




Polo shirt, $98, by John Varvatos Star USA.
From Arnold Palmer to Kanye West, the modern man has always relied on the polo as his go-to shirt. It’s more tailored than a T-shirt yet never looks stiff. Only problem? Finding one with personality. Enter John Varvatos. When his label debuted in 2000, one of the first things the designer introduced was an updated version of this stalwart. That meant trimming the sleeve length and making the body slimmer and shorter so it hits at the perfect point, just above the belt. And he sewed on this peace-sign insignia—distinct, positive, and so not what the rest of the guys at the club are wearing on the course.




Loafers, $545, by Gucci.
Leave it to the Italians to modernize something as proud and traditional as the penny loafer. Whereas the venerable Bass Weejun is solid, with a rounded toe and a relatively thick sole, Gucci’s version is sleeker at every point, with an ankle that hugs your foot so there’s no excess bulk. The Gucci loafer is also a little bolder: The elegant leather shines so impressively that it’s liable to give your car an inferiority complex.




Jacket, $625, by Moncler.
Just after its fiftieth anniversary, in 2002, the venerable French skiwear label Moncler was acquired by Italian entrepreneur Remo Ruffini. Suddenly, its jackets became the most stylish cold-weather gear around. Why? Because the company raided its own archives and designed new jackets based on enduring old-school looks. If you can pull if off, we suggest a model in its much imitated trademark nylon sheen. It’s about as sophisticated as a winter jacket can get.


Photographs by Ilan Rubin

Spacial Thanks also in GQ/fashion : home > gq > fashion 
more on GQ.com

No comments: